Monday, January 15, 2018

A Marvel called Angkor

‘Art and architecture are like creative discoveries, they speak for themselves’


At the heart of all megalith structures, lies a true and beautiful meaning behind its existence and purpose. Angkor Wat is one such architectural marvel that leaves you spell bound not just for its size but for some of the rarest representation of life a mere 1000 years ago. 

Built by King Suryavarman II in the 12th century as a vast funerary temple that would hold his remains, symbolically confirming his permanent identity with Lord Vishnu – and has sculpted walls that speaks in volumes about the two incarnations of Lord Vishnu as per the Indian Mythology.



The huge structure of Angkor Wat is the best representation of classical style of Khmer architecture and ebbs an aura of divinity that can be found in religious holy shrines. 


Although, it’s a challenge to find pathways at Angkor empty, one gets to see the beauty of the never ending long structure through these mega passages. The temple of angkorwat has series of arched inner temple hallways like these throughout the temple's various levels. The stone on the sidewalls are completely covered with beautiful carvings - depicting the ancient workforms of the Mahabharatha and the Ramayana era.



The many theories of why Angkor was built?

There is not one but multiple theories as to why this megalith temple construction was considered. Let’s try and get some light onto this,as per some experts across the world - both the layout of the Angkor temples and the iconographic nature of much its sculpture, particularly the asuras ('demons') and devas ('deities') sculpted intricately on the walls of the temples are also intended to indicate the celestial phenomenon of the precession of the equinoxes and the slow transition from one astrological age to another.


Conventional theories presume the lands where Angkor stands were chosen as a settlement site because of their strategic military position and agricultural potential. Alternative scholars, however, believe the geographical location of the Angkor complex and the arrangement of its temples was based on a planet-spanning sacred geography from archaic times as per scaredsites. Using computer simulations, it has been shown that the ground plan of the Angkor complex – the terrestrial placement of its principal temples - mirrors the stars in the constellation of Draco at the time of spring equinox in 10,500 BC. While the date of this astronomical alignment is far earlier than any known construction at Angkor, it appears that its purpose was to architecturally mirror the heavens in order to assist in the harmonization of the earth and the stars.


Manifold uniqueness of Angkor 

As early as 12th century the current monument was standing on what was then known as ‘Yasodharapura’ and unlike any other temples in the same area facing east – Angkor specifically is aligned to the west, giving a spectacular sunset view ! The temple complex is a representation of classical style of Khmer architecture with five central shrines , having three levels constructed at various dimensions with moats and gigantic compounds surrounding the built city complex. The western exterior or the extended compound area has forecourts of the main temple contains two libraries or smaller temple structures, which also served as ‘astronomical observatories’.

The Khmer's, adhered to the Indian belief that a temple must be built according to a mathematical system in order for it to function in harmony with the universe. Distances between certain architectural elements of the temple reflect numbers related to Indian mythology and cosmology.


Orthodox archaeologists sometimes interpret the temples of the Angkor complex as tombs of megalomaniacal kings - yet in reality those kings designed and constructed the temples as a form of service to both god and their own subjects as per a few sacred sites. The temples were places not for the worship of the kings but rather for the worship of god. The sacred sanctum, is housed nearly in the middle of the last level of the temple complex and one can be enter this area only at scheduled times and in appropriate dressing as directed by the guards. A steep climb and you can see the spectacular view of the levels below. It houses large figurines mostly disfigured and some restored (possibly the main deity of those times).


The main sanctum is precisely aligned with the stars, constructed as a vast three dimensional yantras and adorned with stunningly beautiful religious art, the Angkor temples were instruments for assisting humans in their realization of the divine.


The site receives more than 2 million visitors annually during peak seasons –for Angkor Wat is a sight to behold. 

Wait for my equally intriguing photo stories on Angkor Thom, the Bayon Temple complexes as well..!


Have you visited this place? Share your experience !


P.S. Please note that all information are a part of history behind the temple mythology (not mine) and the information may differ based on different perspectives and narratives as the information is a reference from various sources online. I am presenting here my understanding and perspective of the same in a condensed format to keep the blog short and interesting 


You could comment below if you wish to know more in detail about any specific details/ photographs mentioned.

Tuesday, January 9, 2018

Hazara Rama (HAMPI) : An intricate temple shrine of Lord Shri Rama

hazara rama temple hampi sassy south indian mala chandrashekar

The magnificent Hampi needs no introduction for its alluring monumental beauty and the legend of the Vijayanagara kingdom behind each temple complex dating back to centuries.

In the many trips to Hampi and having spent days exploring these temple complexes - I have come to understand that there is so much more to this beguiling beauty – where one can get swayed in learning more about the ancient times of kings, the culture, the art, the intellect and their ruling that had the entire empire graciously give them a demi-god status for their benevolence and love for people.

In this blog – I will try and write about the little details of one such wondrous temple complex called Hazara Rama.



Literally translating to ‘a thousand Rama’ and refers to stories carved out on the long arrays depicts the reigning deity of the temple – Shri Rama. The name depicts the then rulers ‘secular’ state of mind and inclusiveness of the then rulers.

The small yet intricately decorated is centrally located and is considered to be a private temple for the kings of Vijayanagara empire.



For someone who is interested in history, I find our epics and mythology truly captivating and the Hazare Raama temple complex truly encapsulates the life, experiences, learnings and journey of Lord Rama and his followers in its true beauty with symbolic representations through the sculptures at the complex.

One needs an eye for detail (a tad bit of patience too 😊) to go around the temple complex and searching for hints to put the dots together.




The Dwara / the entrance are surrounded by captivating sculptures and decorative figurines which were handcarved by sculptors representing the life and legacy of Lord Shri Rama.

As I take you along the temple – I will try and explain a few main stories from the Hindu Epic Ramayana, which are intricately showcased all across Hazaare Raama temple complex.




This part of Ramayana starts with the premise where Sage Vishwamitra who foresees the fate of Shri Rama, the incarnation of Vishnu and to is bestowed to take upon himself the duty to lead the young prince Rama to fulfil his legacy.

There is King Dasaratha, who has angered Sage Vishwamithra and is left with no option but to let go of his beloved sons Shri Rama and Lakshmana to pacify the sage. The sage is overwhelmed by the brother’s humbleness and gladly accepts Shri Rama and Lakshmana as his students – to whom he teaches various skills sets and gives them directions to ensue Ramayana.


hazara rama temple hampi


Thataki Samhara – The Demoness

Once a beautiful princess - who was said to be wooed by and married Sunda, an Asura/demonic King. She finds herself wrecking havoc when sage Agastya curses her husband to death. She is further cursed for her deeds along with her two sons (Maricha and Subahu), which transforms both mother and sons into hideous demonic creatures.

Thataki with the loss of her beautiful physique turns cruel and cannibalistic with her sons and begins to terrorize people, devouring anyone especially the sages who dared to set foot in a forest near River Ganga.

When Sage Vishwamitra wants to end the terror, Shri Rama hesitates but, after advise from his master that as a prince, he had to carry out his duty regardless of his own personal reservations.




Swayamvara

The above image is a representation of Rama and Sita’s swayamvara at Janakapuri . With many characters like Rama, Lakshmana, Sage Vishwamitra and Parashurama in play. The story in summary is about the groom-choosing event for Sita.

The King Janaka, had arranged the swayamwara for the kings of various lands who could win over his daughter – Sita’s hand if anyone of them could break the mighty bow of Shiva – The Shivadhanassu.

After many fail, at the will of sage Vishwamitra, Shri Rama goes towards the Shivadhanassu and lifts it up with great ease. He draws the bow string and the bow breaks into two - The heavens resound with the loud crackle like the skies hit by powerful thunder and lightning. Parashurama touched by the humble polite stance of Rama –after he breaks his own bow, calls him the Vishnu incarnate – God of the universe. Thus the silent wish of Sita came to reality when she garlands the ever enchanting Shri Rama.

hazara rama temple hampi


Battle of the mighty

According to Valmiki Ramaayana , there was a long drawn fight between the Rama’s and the Ravana’s army. There are many opinions on what encompassed through the battle between Indrajit and Lakshmana and this is one such mythical representation.

As per the imagery – When Indrajit (eldest son of Ravana) enters to fight in the battle field – he sees that the opposition army will not be easy to be taken down and decides to use his field of expertise –‘magic and tantra’ to fight against the enemy.

Although, he is the only warrior to have possessed the three ultimate weapons of Trimurti i.e. Brahmanda astra, Vaishnavastra, and Pashupatastra. He was initially able to hit Lakshmana by his special weapon named Shakti – that nearly kills Lakshmana if not for Lord Hanuman who travels to the Himalayas to get the medicinal hillock of Sanjeevani and saves Lakshmana.



The Dasara festivity or the celebration of good-over-evil ‘NAVARATRI’ are brilliantly portrayed on the relics that depict -  processions of horses, elephants, attendants, soldiers and dancing women taking part in the dasara procession back in the century . It is said, the relics are among the most extensive ones to be found anywhere in India.

Although Hazara Rama is one of the main shrines and an important temple complex,it has seized of all its religious activities yet remains one the most visited temples – especially during the dasara and ramanavami times.


hazara rama temple hampi mala chanddrashekar sassy southindian

If you are visiting Hampi – this complex is a must visit and be lost in old world charm!


Have you visited this place? Do comment your thoughts!


P.S. Please note that all stories are a part of our legendary epic mythology (not mine) and the stories may differ based on different perspectives and narratives. I am presenting here my understanding and perspective of the same in a condensed format to keep the blog short and interesting.
You could comment below if you wish to know more in detail about any specific mythical portion of the story/ photographs mentioned.

Monday, January 8, 2018

The Magical Glow of Bioluminescent Fungi

Convince me u have a seed there and I’m prepared to expect wonders’– Thoreau


Forget the majestic tigers, forget the magnificent elephants, the glorious peacocks the cheering monkeys.. Let’s just say we find something that lives to glow! How absurd yet beautiful that is?!!
As a wildlife enthusiast, I always seek ways to make journeys, feel and experience exciting nature’s bounty. This time (September 2015) leading a team of 12 wildlife enthusiasts –  A fun, action-packed trip, on one such exploration, where we head in search of to the smaller world of mushrooms, even smaller, the algae and the smallest/least visible to the naked eye – the world of fungi!
The beautiful landscape and a land with mystical theories and species –The Western Ghats
Our Journey began with a bunch of interesting people who were keen on doing an unexplored journey and had a wish list to tick off with this trip. It was one of those tours where all were new yet everyone seemed to have met and had a feeling of knowing each other well before making the group just a perfect one to explore the unknown! 
Onward journey –The kickoff

So, what’s the big talk about the fungi?

What if you realized that in an absolute black night sky, the pitch darkness of the forests amidst lies a phenomenon that lights up patches of forests in bright green light.. Wouldn’t it be fascinating to know who/what causes this glow and if it is visible to the naked eye?
Surely is..! As an add on, experiencing this in the midst of wilderness on a night trek with leopard scats and sloth bear scents alongside pit vipers found in close corners is such a thrill!
The little, yet one of the most venomous snakes scattered and found across Karnataka, known for its swift yet sharp strikes when senses danger - Malabar Pit Viper

So how does the forest glow anyway?

Welcome to the world of ‘GLOW’ or to be precise concept of Bioluminescence:
Before you jump the question about here says – To clarify, this is an absolutely existing, non-mythical and quiet a common phenomenon in certain parts of Western Ghats and remain less exposed due to lack of exploration/awareness sharing in various forums.
Bioluminescence – In simple terms – means light emitted by an organism, produced by energy released from chemical reaction occurring inside (or ejected by) the organism.
Relatively common in insects and sea creatures, commonly seen and exhibited by glowworms and fireflies. This however, is slightly different where the bioluminescence is seen on land caused by a fungus on land! 


Can fungi actually give light?
Yes! Did you know that Fungi – is a living organism and continues to multiply with enough moisture and can survive under most temperature and weather conditions.
The bioluminescent fungus (a few) produces the faint glow in a process, which is akin to that used by the glowworm. The growing part of the body of the fungi (hyphae) which is present in decaying plant matter is responsible for the glow. Only about 70 species of fungi are known to be bioluminescent. 
bioluminescent fungi in goa india mala chandrashekar

bioluminescent fungi in goa india mala chandrashekar
Taken on the spot for exploratory observation on our exploratory tour - September 2015
We were 12 of us and started walking half past 10 (10:30 pm) and as we treaded through our path – as we began to loose light, we slowly managed to sight a few patches, and nearly after 4 kms of walk – we came across a small patch that nearly looked like the tree was lit bottom up! 
Extremely difficult and a challenge to photograph this phenomenon - Karthik Samprathi and the team took great measures to get the exact representation for record purposes with the equipment they had.
Although the glow was faint, with less moisture in air – we were glad to come across that patch.
bioluminescent fungi india mala chandrashekar

bioluminescent fungi india mala chandrashekar
Comparative image –Shows the area just as an ordinary patch of land and the same patch in complete darkness takes over with glowing green bioluminescence light.

A few more stops and we reached a considerably larger open area and could clearly hear a waterfall close by. It was more open, scattered and a few spells of rain luckily made this our sweet spot for observation –it was nearly 12 past midnight and from our each pit stop, we could clearly see the variation in the glow - It had moved from faint - shallow – prominent glow in just a matter of few hours alongside a slight change in temperature..!
What we saw absolutely amazed us! And as everyone began to recall the facts I had mentioned during the small orientation about generic facts of fungi clearly seemed to be making sense with what was lying right in front and experiencing it.
The Bioluminescence fungi particularly found in this region is said to be Mycena, a species of bioluminescent fungus that produces and emits light through a chemical reaction; the intensity of light is dependent on the amount of oxygen in the atmosphere. Simply put, during the monsoon, these forests glow in the night. Its known also as Foxfire. Foxfire is a natural phenomenon sometimes visible at night in forests.
bioluminescent fungi in goa india mala chandrashekar

bioluminescent fungi india mala chandrashekar
Extremely challenging to capture on camera, glowing green bioluminescence light
Some stunning facts of Fungi – It is pretty much found all through, everywhere – in the soil, or tree trunks, on leaves, etc. Scientists estimate a whopping 1.5 to 5 million species! So far only describe and name only about 75000 species, around 15000 of them being reported from India.

Why do they glow?

Why they glow, what benefit they derive is not very clear and pretty controversial as a matter of fact and many scientists are trying to figure the exact reason behind it. However, some preliminary observations suggest that the bioluminescence could attract insects which help in dispersing spores!
We were pretty pleased with the way our exploratory tour went and decided to call it a day err.. Night! ;) 

We started early the next day and headed towards – Chorla ghat Plateau

I was told it was a place to sight some beautiful butterflies and dandelions. We took about a good 30 mins to walk up and reach the top and behold! What was in front of us was mist-covered hills surrounding us, ground full of dandelions and little colorful flowers all around us.. Making it almost like scene from a movie of a distant imaginary land!

We clicked some pictures, laid down and let the mist cross our face, laughed until our jaws hurt – and all the while our hearts longed for more.. What a picturesque place to end our journey!
mala chandrashekar at goa

Goodbye to good times..
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Do watch this video that summates the epic adventure exploration journey we all had!